I've used the APHS for many years from Freestyle as a continuous tone film for LF and ULF. Hey, it's cheap so the lure has long been there. Plus I originally gravitated to it because of it's main problem for Silver printers. It's contrasty as hell which you can make work for you in Pt/Pd. But what if you want a normal range for silver contact prints?
A Pyro guy for years, I first started experimenting with PMK massively diluted. Success was so-so. I'm no gadget Gainer but I do know just enough and had a few things on hand to be dangerous. At one time I used to mix my E6 developer from powders. The formulas all used 2 restrainers. .2% Benzotriazole, and .1% Potassium Iodide. So I thought I'll experiment with these 2 restrainers with my developers for the APHS to try to tame it a bit.
I wound up with a useable Pyro-Catechol developer doing this but I never shared it because it still was kind of "iffy".
Last evening I tried the same thing with Rodinal and things began to fall nicely into place. The 2 photographs below are both developed last evening in the new soup.
Petzval Prickly Poppies Jesus Reigns on High
It's very simple. Make the 2 restrainer solutions. 1 gram Potassium Iodide into 1 liter H2O makes the .1% solution. Likewise, 2 gram Benzotriazole into 1 liter H2O makes the .2% solution. A couple of fairly good sized syringes are handy for mixing. Here's the formula:
20cc .2% Benzotriazole
4cc .1% Potassium Iodide
That's IT! I never made smaller quantities than 1 liter per sheet because the Rodinal will exhaust fairly quickly.
Here's my procedure for developing. I develop with a red light on just a few feet away from the 10X12" tray. I can see exactly what I'm getting. APHS needs a minute or so water rinse to get the anti halation gook off of it. Pour that out and pour the developer directly in. Start a timer pre-set for 10 minutes or so. When the image "emerges" not just the first highlights, but the recognizeable image, I note the time and multiply by four. So if my image comes up in 100 seconds, I force myself to keep rocking the tray until 400 seconds. It's very easy in the dim red light to pull the film too soon. Last evening the negs all fell within 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 minutes.
Stop development in 3 seperate baths of H20. Take a good couple of minutes for this.
Fix like any other film.
Negatives are greenish and seem a bit scant compared to regular negs. On multi-contrast paper I usually print with a #3 or #3 1/2 contrast filter to overcome the green and add a little boost if needed. The prints above were made on Kentmere VCFB.
Oh, BTW for you Rodinal worshippers....this was done with the 1972 bottle that I opened the other day. It's the old glass bottle with the rubber stopper that you puncture and leave your syringe sticking out of the top
Let me know your thoughts!